Firenze, Italia

Firenze, Italia
The Ponte Vecchio (the Old Bridge) in Florence across the Arno River. This bridge is about two blocks away from my apartment.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Parma Bound! (And counting down the minutes!)

Tomorrow I'm going to....
PARMA!
Yayayayayayayayay!
A few weeks ago my sweet, southern, polished grandmother Lollie introduced me to her dear friends, Theresa and Joe Brown, who are currently in Italy visiting their daughter who lives in Parma. They invited me to come join them to see Parma while they are here.
Oh my GOODNESS, I just got off the phone with "Aunt Treat." She is the sweetest, easiest to talk to woman! She made me feel so comfortable and told me how excited she was about getting to spend time together. We are going to eat dinner, tour the town with the kids, and play cards and chat when they go to bed. Hearing her sweet southern accent literally made me tear up a little. I can't wait to spend time with her and her husband and their two grandchildren.
We only made plans this afternoon, and tomorrow after class I'm hopping on the train to arrive at 17:07! I am going to spend the night tomorrow night in their adorable restored barn house in the countryside. I can't wait. I'm giddy. Ask my roommates. Leyla has already assisted me in picking out what I will wear. I've already packed. Tomorrow's outfit will be: my Joe's jeans rolled up twice, dark gray converses, black scoop neck long-sleeved shirt, corduroy blazer, tan belt, and pink scarf. European and sophisticated.
Mrs. Theresa makes me smile. She's already sent me secondary emails to confirm/give contact info and so on. Can I tell you I'm pumped?
Tomorrow I will wake up and buy a housewarming gift at the pasticeria, meet my partners to work on my Calvino presentation, give the presentation, leave class five minutes early, and catch the train to Parma!
Housewarming gift suggestions? I'm thinking the closest thing to banana bread or another sweet loaf.
Tomorrow's presentation on "Invisible Cities" will be a feat. I love the book; every line, every simile, every odd city out of Calvino's imagination brings out some sort of universal human truth. The reader brings himself to the book and will identify with it. He will be changed after contemplating the facets of the human mind, our self-deception, our potential for a life of thanks if we would only look closely at the world around us.
According to his wife, Calvino lived entirely inside of his own head which makes the book and his opinion on relationships all the more fascinating.
Read it. It has officially become one of my favorite books, if it is not my favorite. But read it with a pen in your hand...everything links. SO GOOD.
Brief recap of the day: went to the Cascine Market with Olivia and had a deep chat...I feel like I know her so much better. Then, I ran to class; it was a fortyfive minute walk and I barely made it on time! Then, I signed up for GRAPE HARVESTING AND CRUSHING AS WELL AS A WINETASTING at a professor's castle and vineyard this saturday with Olivia, Sabrina, and Meredith (only twenty euro!). Then, met my presentation mates for lunch (at three...I had a turkey, smoked cheese, spinach, sundried tomato, and pesto sandwich on focaccia. best sandwich I have ever eaten. ever.), talked about "Invisible Cities," worked on our presentation, came home. Helped Leyla cook a little bit and then ate delicious ginger chicken with rice noodles and a salad. Super healthy AND yummy. THEN I corresponded with "Aunt Treat" and we chatted on the phone. Now, I have to finish the details of my presentation so I can wake up early tomorrow to be ready for a packed, fantastic day! Buona serata!

Monday, September 27, 2010

Cooking Tips from a Severe Chef

Today was the first day I went to check my mail in about a week. I looked through the stack and had four pieces of mail! I was ecstatic. The first was a thick envelope: my absentee ballot. Boom, done, in the mail. The second was a package of pictures from my grandma, Lollie. The third was a package of pictures from my grandma, Lollie. They were from PaJoe's 90th birthday celebration. They're adorable. I can't wait to display them. The fourth was...(drumroll please)... from MICAH COUNTS! She included a comic of my European travels. Bestie, you know me too well.
My body is so tired.
It's from the hours of walking I've done today and this weekend.
Which is a good thing, of course. I can feel my legs tingle when I sit down. And I have to work up the willpower to get back up.
Today I walked to FUA for History of the Italian Renaissance and then to the Florence Cathedral (Il Duomo) for short presentations (I did mine on Santa Reparata, the church from the 4th Century that was torn down to build Santa Maria Del Fiore, a.k.a The Florence Cathedral, a.k.a. The Duomo). Thennnnnn I walked to Apicius (twenty minutes away) then I took the long way home just to explore more of the city. I ended up at Ganzo (another twenty or so), then to DIVA to get my mail, to FUA, the tabacchi to buy a stamp to send my grandmother a letter, and finally I walked to the elevator to go upstairs. My roommates came out of it. They were going to the store. Suuuuuuure I'll go with you.
I decided not to buy anything. That lasted for five minutes. I bought whole wheat penne on sale, whole wheat crackers, a one euro packaged panna cotta (I've never had it before!), and sponges for the dishes.
All I wanted to do was to get home. And now I am. Ahhhhhhhhhh, first time I've really gotten to sit since about 1:30 (it's 8:15 here).
For COOKING CLASS, we had a sub. She was older and much more severe. But she taught us MANY practical things. I will share.
-If your garlic starts to sprout, it's old. Just remove the sprout and use it. (But don't use it if it's too old and tough.)
-Eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes, and peppers are all from the same family.
-Do not repeatedly put garlic on the skin. It is "caustic."
-If your oil smokes, replace it.
-Buy the produce at the MARKET, and buy the stuff that is cheaper. If it's cheaper, that means there is a surplus, which means it is in season. Common sense, but sometimes we need people to explicitly tell us these things.
-Don't eat ANYTHING burnt. It's carcinogenic.
-To test if your oil is ready for frying, test a piece of whatever you are frying and see if it reacts.
-Do not put too much flour in gnocchi/pasta or it will be too chewy.

We made pesto gnocchi and potato croquettes. Everyone's gnocchi was overcooked and so it was really mushy. BUT, the teacher told us that our croquettes were the best :)
I stayed after class because she asked me to help her turn off everyone's lights. We chatted a bit, and she said to use her and Cecilia as a resource because we can learn so much and they are willing to share everything with us.
I'll put up recipes from this week and last week when I have the energy. I just can't move right now.

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Ever Fought a Gypsy?

Hello, hello!
I've sunken into my couch and turned off the lights. Now I'm staring into my computer screen feeling a bit like Carrie Bradshaw. But at least my stories are more wholesome.
Being abroad is all about FIRSTS. And today, mine was riding a train! It was a little loud, a little dirty, and exactly what I was expecting it to be. On the return it was pitch black and sounded like pigs were being slaughtered whenever we stopped.
The train station...sigh. First, we got there about ten minutes before it departed, you know, adding to the suspense and drama of hopping on a train. Well, the ticket machine ATE my ten euro bill, and we had no time wait in line to argue with the Italian clerk to get my money back. THEN, the lines were long and we had to get the next train.
While buying our tickets, a gypsy slinked over to us. Gypsies...you feel bad for them for the first week while you're here. Then you just want to roll your eyes every time they come up to you or, sometimes, you push them.
For example: Olivia was getting her ticket and the change back out of the machine. A gypsy came up, asking for money, and ALWAYS saying "Grazie" to you to make you feel bad about not giving her any. Olivia said "Non grazie," Sabrina looked her in the eyes and repeatedly said "No," and I diverted eye contact because that's what has been most effective (you give them an inch...). She came into our half-circle surrounding the machine, started touching it, and tried to take Olivia's change out of the receptacle! Uhh, wha---?! Olivia had to forcibly slam the woman's wrist in the machine, and Sabrina elbowed her out of the way. Yeah, that's right, my friends fought a gypsy today.
So, first uneventful train ride. We got out of the station and were a bit disillusioned. THIS is it? Arezzo, where "La Vita e Bella" was filmed? We found a book stand and I bought some of Boccaccio's poetry. At least I have THAT to remember Arezzo by...
So, we walked closer to the downtown...and immediately were blown away. Arezzo is magnificent. It's on a bunch of hills, but everything is close together, so even when you get lost you can easily find your way back. There are several piazzas and TONS of churches that are breathtaking. We went to San Francesco church, and I lit two candles: one for Mama and one for PaJoe. I'm not Catholic and have never lit a candle before, but I do believe in the power of prayer because I believe in the power of God. It was awesome to be able to have a visual of those two prayers and two loved-ones.
Later, stumbled upon a park that had spectacular views of the Tuscan countryside. Pictures tomorrow. THEN, we came across (GUESS!) a wedding. The bride was gorgeous, the groom was sexy, and the attendees wore designer jeans and blazers. So. Attractive.
It was in this cathedral so we didn't know if we could go in, but like that stops us anyway! It was one of the most beautiful churches I have EVER been in. A pope was buried there, too (Umberto something...). I'll put up those pictures as well.
We also found a weird Renaissance-y/Oktoberfest festival. I don't know. AND in the Piazza Grande, there was a huge festival for kids and karaoke for adults. Loved it.
We ate dinner at a chill place. I had asparagus risotto! Mmmmmm. It was only seven euros, including my bottled water!
Then, hopped on the train, bought my parents tickets for when they visit (WHOOP!), and walked home alone on well-lit streets. I didn't feel uncomfortable for a moment.
Well, I'm off to bed now - it's just me tonight! The girls and I hope to go to Bologna tomorrow.
Arrivederci!

Friday, September 24, 2010

Pienza e Pecorino

Pienza was the destination of the day.
I woke up at 6:30 (most likely 12:30 AM your time), left the house at 7:25, and got lost around 7:40. I'm terrible with directions. But even the Italian man I asked for help didn't know where the street on my map was. Providentially, Meredith and Sabrina walked up at the next moment! The three of us found our way to our bus stop and headed to a multi-class field trip to the Renaissance town of Pienza.
It was beautiful, small, and cheery. Walking up the small streets, the smell of pecorino cheese, the delight of the area, beckoned you to enter the Mom and Pop shops. We had to wait until AFTER our tour of Pope Pius II and his family's palace, Palazzo Piccolomini. It was beautiful. Pius laid out the house and gave much attention to having each floor face the breath-taking views of the Tuscan countryside from the drop off of the hill the house is founded upon. The courtyard in the middle of the house has a view to the garden outside of the house as well as a huge opening in the roof to let in as much light as possible. He did this to symbolize light as divine inspiration. Who cares if he's on a list of the 25 most evil people of the Renaissance?
Anyway, he inspired me to live in a house of many windows to stream in light when I am older. Just being in the sun or being able to view the outside is so beneficial for the psyche; I'm a firm believer in that.
After that, we went to a cute chapel (which is slowly sliding off of the hill into the abyss in the next century...) and then heard some presentations. Yawn.
We looked around, bought some pecorino cheese (!), and found a sandwich shop to try out this famous sheep's milk cheese. De-lish. Then, we loaded up, I got out my book, and we were on our way home.
My contemporary Italian literature teacher was the OTHER teacher on the trip, so we ended up chatting about Calvino's "Invisible Cities." It's so much more complicated than can be explained. I love it, though. Type "structuralism" into Wikipedia to learn about one of it's themes. YIKES. Anyway, it was a total bonding moment.
Then, surprisingly, I took a nap on the bus. I woke up, turned my iPod on shuffle, and realized we were in Florence. What song was playing? "Home Sweet Home" by Lady Sunshine. Thanks, God.
I met a girl named Joy walking back from the bus and she was really cool and easy to talk to. Then, I headed over to Sabs, Olivia, and Meredith's to try and work out our plans for this weekend. We tried to schedule a visit to a vineyard tomorrow, but the man never got in touch with us again. Oh well. We may head to the Island of Elba or to Arezzo or Lucca. Somewhere close but beautiful.
I took a different route home and Hot Hot Heat's "Middle of Nowhere" came on my iPod. I laughed again. Went to the supermarket, thought I was buying zucchini and bought cucumbers (don't ask.), and then roasted a granny smith apple and ate it with a slice of pecorino cheese.
After that, I watched "How I Met Your Mother," and here I am now.
Mama is doing better, but PaJoe is not doing well. Please keep praying for both.
Tomorrow, my roommates head to Verona, and I am traveling around Tuscany with my "Wildcat" friends. It'll be interesting to sleep in this place alone, but it'll be a nice break from all my hustling. Not that kind of hustling. (Joke.) I'll be working on my Calvino presentation while they're gone (i.e., getting all philosophical and maybe writing about it).
I hope your day is full of adventure and light.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Alle Quattro e Mezzo, Io Sono Stanca!

It's only 4:30 here and my day has already been SO FULL.
I've been to two of the world's most famous museums, went to class, and attended a concert.
I couldn't sleep well so I decided that I might as well get up (around seven) and make it for the opening of the Uffizi. I got there about 8:30 and the lines were already wrapping around. I didn't know where to buy my ticket, either, so I had to ask a a few people. I talked to a couple from America and it put me in a good mood to hear them speak English and not be a classmate.
I knowingly went to the wrong ticket office just to ask for help, and the sweet woman gave me my ticket and let me in through the back way...ahead of the whole line of tourists. Grazie, signora! So, at about 8:45 I was one of the very first people of the day to enter the museum. It was huge and houses so many masterpieces. To name a few, I saw "La Primavera," "The Birth of Venus," by Sandro Botticelli, quite a few of Fillipo Lippi's works, and "Medusa" by Caravaggio. Medusa's expression is striking. You have to see a picture of this!
I stayed for about two and a half hours and then went back home to start cooking lunch.
I chopped up some carrot, zucchini, and onion, cooked some pasta, cooked the veggies, threw it all together with some tomato sauce and two small slices of salami, and watched part of the newest episode of Gossip Girl. Perf.
Then I headed to Italian class...boring today: we learned about articles. But, Nada told us valuable tips about Italians and their coffee. NEVER order a cappuccino in a restaurant; it is frowned upon. If you want to be an authentic Italian, you order espresso, a macchiato, or a caffe correto. "What is a caffe correto?" one might ask. I'll tell you. It is a shot of grappa in the center of a shot of espresso. You only live once...so, after class, I asked Nada if I should try it and where to get one. She told me of a fancy bar and to order it "porta da via" ("to go" or "take away") because the table charge is outrageous. So, after class, I chatted with my friends, parted ways, and stood at the bar and drank my first caffe correto. "It's excellent for digestion," Nada added. Hopefully that's true...it tasted fine but I think I'd change the liquor to something more coffee-friendly. Don't worry, I'm not becoming an alch-y. Everything in moderation. I just want to taste and see and feel everything and embrace the culture, bit by bit!
So, then I headed to go get mail...I got sidetracked and ended up at the Bargello, one of the most famous sculpture museums in the world. I was told I was beautiful by a man on the street on my way there. Living here has its perks. Oh, and there was a concert in the courtyard of the Bargello! An opera singer and seven or eight cellists played Bach...it was fantastic. I got to hear them practicing, too, while I was looking at the artwork. I almost cried it was so perfect for the moment.
So, now I'm home, about to read a bit for class and now realizing that I forgot to pick up my mail. Oops! Typical. My roommates are napping, and I think I'm going to finish my episode of Gossip Girl so my sister and I can chat about it. THEN I'll do homework. What? It's been a full day. Please continue to pray for Mama; she's still in the hospital.
XOXO, CB

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Shopping, Literature, and Aperitivi

Hallo!
Today?
Today was chill, good.
Mom told me that I shouldn't be shy to buy a few things in Italy while I'm here, so I decided that accessories are the best way to dress up any outfit. I bought a tan belt, VERY necessary. I also bought a version of a scarf that I have seen on the streets everywhere here; it's brownish-gray with a lacy outline. Delicate, feminine, and versatile.
I had my Contemporary Italian Literature class today, and we studied Calvino's Marcovaldo. It's an easy, enjoyable read...it's like going to the movies. Next week two other girls in my class and I have to give a presentation on another of Calvino's works, "Invisible Cities." It's fifty-five descriptions of fifty-five cities (some real, some fantasy), all categorized by different philosophical aspects of perception of reality. In between these descriptions, a dialogue between Kubla Khan and Marco Polo about perception and truth is found. Uhhh, whaaaaa--? Imma need to read this a few times. Our teacher told us that if we were feeling lost while reading, that's to be expected. Cool.
Then I headed home for a bit, and then Jess and I headed to the Uffizi. The lines were atrocious so we headed to Santa Croce. Our passes didn't cover it, and we decided to walk around instead. We found this adorable shop full of vegan, handmade cosmetics and soaps. Each product has a sticker of a drawing of the cosmetic-maker's face. It's a great tactic to force you to think about the work behind it and appreciate it. We're definitely going back. Then, we decided to stop for a drink at the pub next to our house. I let Jess order for me because she worked as a bartender. It was a "Colorado Bulldog": a white russian with a bit of Coke. It was really good!
Then we wandered to this rally thing for American students, didn't see ANY students, and headed on to APERITIVI WEDNESDAYS at GANZO! I had a creme de menthe with milk and many delicious appetizers. Our group was me, Jess, Leyla, Alva, Kyle, Ian, Meredith, and Olivia, and we kept going back for more. Hey, it was our dinner! Then we came back home and have chilled for a while. I edited a paper for Jess and will soon edit Leyla's. Chill day/night!
Gots to go Skype Micah! Yay!
XOXO

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Grazie al Mia Padre Santo, il Mercato Centrale, e la Mia Cintura Pazza

Ciao a tutti!
Today has been a typical day. I.e., It's been fantastic.
I woke up, ate breakfast, worked on Redeemer New York's Study of the Gospel of Mark, took a shower, read a bit of Marcovaldo, and headed out the door for the Uffizi. I chose to wear my favorite European-esque black cropped pants, a flowy white, cap-sleveed shirt, a vintage black belt around my waist that was once my mother's, my red glasses, and my silver gladiators. I have YET to go to the Uffizi on my own, so I headed to the office to reserve tickets for Thursday morning. Turns out that with my student pass, I don't need them! From there, I headed to Piazza della Signoria to people-watch, then headed around the backstreets. Lovely, lovely.
I started to notice something odd. I walked by myself, so I was much more in tune with passerby's. On my way to meet up with friends at the market, I was hit on...I received several "Ciao Bella"'s, the "chh chh" noise, and even a few "Hi"'s from the creepers that could tell I was American. I was thoroughly confused. I figured out that the belt high around my waist must have ACCENTUATED my curves, and that, no, it wasn't my face that was looking exceptionally fresh and cute today (I was even wearing my glasses, so it COULDN'T have been that).
When I got home after class, I opted to take off the belt and replace it with my corduroy jacket before heading to the library. At least it was a self-esteem boost for the day.
Market time with Olivia, Sabrina, and Meredith was definitely a plus in the day. I bought dried fragole (strawberries), ananas (pineapples), and bananas, and ALSO haggled my way into getting a huge stalk of celery for solo uno euro. The vendor sighed while weighing it and decided to keep my bid for a euro. Grazie! For lunch, I scoured the huge market (which is the one place in Florence where almost only all Florentines still gather) and found a cute bread and meat place for uno panino. Mmmm. For two fifty euro, I bought a panino con salami toscani e pomodori secchi in olio. Delizioso! Worth it. Authentic tuscan food. Mom and Dad, this will definitely be a destination for your trip.
My friends and I parted ways, and I dropped off my purchases before heading to Italian. Povre Nada was sick with a cold (as is every other pupil at FUA...including me), and she did not wear a crazy outfit today. Sigh. Her congestion did not really affect her high-pitched voice. Impressive. She looked like she was on safari: Brown safari shirt, white jeans, cute closed-toed tan shoes, and a precious little scarf tied the European way.
After class, I took a nap until our maid Olga came, chatted with her in Ital-glish, then headed to the library. Really, it's my favorite place. There's a fresco on the wall across from where I sit. No big deal. When I came home, Jess was already making dinner: Chicken, mushroom, cheese, and rice-stuffed bell peppers! So good. We decided we need a nice glass of white wine, so I offered to go down the street and get some. It was on sale: 1.78 Euro for a well-balanced young wine. I came home, chatted with Leyla, and let her look at the bottle because she knows a good deal about wine. She asked for a sweater from the closet, so I opened it and searched. "AHHHHHH!" Jess was squatting in the corner and jumped out at me, scaring me half to death. She's been watching a ton of "Scare Tactics" this week and researched different pranks to do on her roomies. I can tell this is the start of an eventful semester. Apparently, I did the "Scared Shake," jumping back with shaking hands semi-raised. Yep.
But dinner was great! Then I got to Skype with my mom for a really long time! It was great to talk to her...I love that woman. She's exhausted from being at the hospital so much with Mama, and also her father was put in the hospital last night. She's so strong. We got to talk about life in Macon and also their upcoming trip here. I can't help but already make plans for it.
God has been so gracious to us; Mama is doing better! I don't want to say too much, but she is feeling better and has been able to drink a little. Praise Him, Praise Him! Please continue to pray for her and to say a prayer for my sweet 90-year-old grandfather, PaJoe.
On a lighter note, my flickr account is full and I can no longer post pictures with my bloggings. Check out all my pictures on Facebook, though!
Buona Notte, i miei amici.

Monday, September 20, 2010

A-llor-a!


My Carrot Souffles
Originally uploaded by catrberry
Italians have three phrases that they use constantly and as space-fillers wherever needed.
They are: "allora," "prego," e "va bene."
When you say "allora," you say it almost mid-sigh. "Ahhh-lllooorr-UH!" It means "therefore," "then," or "now," but everyone says it to mean "moving on" or like we say "I mean...". I love to hear this word used with a sharp emphasis on the last syllable.
The word "prego" means "you're welcome!" Or, it can mean "Go ahead" or "what would you like?" when ordering. Also, it can mean "after you" if you and another person are trying to get into an elevator. ANOTHER meaning is "I didn't hear/understand what you said, can you repeat that?" Just in case you wanted to know. It's my multipurpose word. When in doubt, say prego. You'll make SOME sort of sense.
"Va bene" literally means "It goes well," but Italians often say this repeatedly, even if only to themselves. It REALLY means "okay," but also if you're getting flustered trying to speak in Italian to the clerk at the Uffizi, it can also mean "you're okay," or "it's okay." This can also be applied when you screw up during cooking class and spill the cream.
I'm learning a bit of Italian! I can tell because when I listen in on people's conversations on the street, I can understand bits and pieces. For example, a distraught 20-something Italian woman was on her cellphone with (I'm assuming) her boyfriend. The one phrase she yelled over and over into her phone was "Tu vuoli questo! Tu vuoli questo!" Which means, "YOU want this, YOU want this!" I've made up a lot of different ideas of what her boyfriend could want but, sadly, I will probably never know. Guess I'll just have to frequent that street.
Other than that, today we had a fascinating History of the Italian Renaissance class AND a thrilling cooking class on CARROTS. I made a souffle, and the consistancy was "excellent!" It is apparently difficult to make, so Chef Cecilia was very proud of her care piccole. It was moist and delicious; savory with cheese. I'll post the recipe later.
I got to Skype the lovely Caroline Wicker tonight; lovely is the best way to describe this woman. It was her first skype. I am so honored. Always a delightful conversation and sweet taste of home. She drinks so deeply of the Lord's love that it spills out in every word. What an encouragement to talk to this friend!
Mama is being moved to Palliative Care soon. I'm preparing myself.
Tomorrow is the outdoor market with my Kentucky friends and then Italian class! Pumped.
I still have a good bit of reading to do for class on Wednesday, so I will sign off now to get to it. Prayers are needed: for my grandmother's healing and comfort, for my family as we care for her, and for my relationship with God/finding community here in Italy. Would you say a small prayer for me tonight?
Signing off. Ciao-ciao! (A new phrase I heard Chef Cecilia say today...I will now pick it up and use it as much as possible.)

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Verona!


Friends in Verona
Originally uploaded by catrberry
Ciao! I am just back from Verona, the city of Shakespeare's "Romeo and Juliet."
Ahhh, what a quaint city. It's the first European city that has had a lot of greenery, so it reminded me of sweet ole Georgia. (Side note: Peaches here are not that good. When they SHOULD be ripe, no, they're still firm. And a little mealy tasting. Georgia peaches are definitely superior.)
Verona is very colorful and the whole story of the Montagues and the Capulets haunts the town. There is an Arena there that was built before the Roman Colosseum. It's still in use! There are many operas and concerts performed for a crowd of about 15,000. I would LOVE to go check one out sometime. I may be making a trip back.
We went to Juliet's house and toured the museum. Also, we got to peer out her balcony. Our walking tour guide told us that there were actual, dueling families with "cognomi" similar to Montague and Capulet, and that the house we visited was the house of the "Capulet" family. I don't know if this is to be trusted or not, but I'll romanticize it in my head, thank-you-very-much.
We all wrote letters to "Juliet" and wrote our names in her book. I reverted back to being a schoolgirl for a day. All I'm sayin' is is that Juliet better write back. Or I won't come back to Verona.
Before dinner on Saturday night, my family called me from the hospital and I got to talk to my grandmother. It was hard to understand her, but she asked all about how I was and what I was doing, and we exchanged "I miss you"'s and "I love you"'s. It was very much a relief to hear her sweet voice.
I spent the weekend with Meredith, Sabrina, and Olivia, and I have to say I am so blessed to have these friends. They're adventurous and fun (and hilarious!) without any pressure to party all the time. We spent hours just chatting and laughing, and even time on the steps of a museum not speaking but sketching and reading. What beautiful friendships! I really enjoy and appreciate them.
The weekend was tiring but excellent, and now I have to do tons of homework. Check out my pictures for more specifics!

Friday, September 17, 2010

Prayer for Mama

Good things have happened today but the only thing on my mind is my grandmother.
I love her so much. Dad told me that they won’t preform surgery on her. She has probably aspirated and is having trouble breathing as well as her stomach problems, too.
I’m having a hard time not being in the U.S.
After Skyping with Dad to find out the news, Jess came in and let me cry as I hugged her. Leyla held my hand. I sobbed. I’m a crier. An ugly one, too...snot, creepy noises, hyperventilating. Just back away.
But they didn’t. They held me and let me feel all that I was feeling.
I feel for my family. I want to be with them. I feel like I’m not a part of them with this going on and me here. She deserves for her family to gather around and love on her, but I cannot come home. I must accept this. Dad always tells me, the baby, that I need to "be brave." I will be.
Tomorrow is our ISA trip to Verona. As of now, I am still planning to go and hope to talk to Mama on the phone tomorrow while I’m there.
Please continue to pray for my family and especially for dear Mama. She is in a lot of pain and is very uncomfortable. She is ready to go, and praise the Lord, she is a Christian. Selfishly I still want her here.
Please pray for her comfort and for the Lord's will in this situation. I don't know what to ask for, but I do know that God is sovereign, and His will is perfect.

Thursday, September 16, 2010

L'amicizia.


Letter from Meghan
Originally uploaded by catrberry
The theme of the day is...friendship.
I'm so blessed.
Culture shock comes in four stages: the "Oh my gosh this place is so great I can't believe and I'm here I'm never going to leave because it's perfect" [honeymoon] stage, the "okay, so the magic is wearing off and now I'm getting tired of all of these tourists and people who don't understand my language and my family and friends and and football games are in America and maybe it was better there and maybe I should be back" [negotiation] stage, the "Now I'm getting the hang of this and I know how to get around and talk to the people and the Italians are warm and now I'm a regular here" [adjustment] stage, and the final "this is my home, this is me, and this culture is now what I relate to most" [mastery] stage that I will probably never get to because I won't be here that long.
Right now, I'm in the second stage. It can be hard finding your place in a foreign country with people around you that are not like you, what you've known your whole life. I'm definitely learning, and I'm definitely maturing. But there are growing pains, and I do miss my family and friends. Most of all, I want to be with my grandmother right now. Don't get me wrong, I love it here; it's fascinating and beautiful and full of life, but change is hard.
And that's why I'm learning how blessed I am when it comes to friendship.
Today I checked the mail (just in case) and my eyes LIT up at the first envelope. It was white and thick and had strips of newspaper print between the address (I don't think the Italians liked that...they blacked out part of it, haha!). The best part: the return address said MEGHAN GUARINO. I've missed this dear friend and receiving this letter made my day. I ran upstairs to read it in the library and could not help but laugh out loud. It was in a spiral so I had to keep reading turning it to read it...I'm sure it was distracting.
I got home, still smiling, and my roommates greeted me and then headed upstairs to the kitchen together. "Sketchy..." They came down with a white rose that they bought at the market for me. What dears! They knew that I'd been sad about Mama, so they said they brought a white one to give me "peace of mind." I'm so blessed; they are so thoughtful and loving. Leyla even made delicious fajitas for dinner! The best I've ever had. Healthy, colorful, delicious. Benissimo!
Also, I got to talk to my parents on the phone yesterday trying to figure out train tickets for them to come in a month. I can't wait! I know this month will fly by and I'll know all the best places to take them around. I know they are going to adore Florence like I do. I even got to talk to Emily on Skype for like an hour last night. It was such an encouragement in the Lord, and I can't believe He has provided a family that loves Him like they do. What a blessing that we will all worship Our Heavenly Father in Heaven one day!
Last of all is a tribute to my bestie, Micah Counts, who turns 20 today. Micah is my soulmate. She is the person I can tell anything to and she will still love me. She is so giving, so caring, and so thoughtful. She will do anything for you to make your day better. She's a great baker, wonderful with kids, devoted to the Lord, and the most selfless person I know. She's my person that enjoys music, food, and adventure as much as I do. She is such a gift to my life, and I am so happy to celebrate her twenty years of life! I love you, Mickles.
Leyla and Jess and I are off to play some cards. Yup. I'm starting card nights when I get back to Athens, btw. Prepare yourselves.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Due Biglietti?


Water on Coco
Originally uploaded by catrberry
I had to order tickets IN ITALIAN for my parents to come see the Uffizi Museum. I mean, I've ordered food, gotten groceries, asked for directions, even gotten museum tickets for myself before, but this time I was nervous.
"Due biglietti per favore?" Stop. Breathe uneasily. Uhhh...what do I say next? Oh yeah, the date...hesitation.
"Si..." Noticing my nervousness, the clerk comforts me. "Va bene."
I laughed, she laughed. "Per il 18 di Octobre?"
It's closed on Mondays. "Eeeeeeeeee...Martedi. Alle nove?"
"Si." I flashed my student museum pass to see if I could get a discount, she got confused, FAIL.
"Uhh...mi dispiace. E....it's for my parents."
"Oh, for your parents. Okay." [Prints out the tickets.]
"Grazie!"
"Ciao!"
I left fiercely perspiring. I don't know why I was so worked up about ordering tickets. But now I have them!
Then I went to the supermarket, bought some produce and bread, ate lunch, and headed to my contemporary Italian literature course...but I went to the wrong building. I had to walk twenty minutes to the right one, and got to class ten minutes late. Fortunately, my teacher was forgiving and gave me a smile.
We analyzed six of Cesare Pavese's poems which were written in the 1940s or so. His main themes are the Italian countryside vs. city and the rise of feminism. I LOVVVVEEEDDDDD his stuff. (If you're interested, go to http://www.poetryfoundation.org/archive/poem.html?id=181993). His suicide note is pretty legit as well...yeah, I said that.
Getting back in the saddle of reading and appreciating literature makes me incredibly happy. I feel like that's where I'm supposed to be. My teacher is really cool; gives us a break, gives us interesting assignments, very much makes it a discussion-based class, but also gives her input of what works SHE loves. Plus, I think she likes me. We'll make this work.
After class I took a nap and then went on a walk with Jess because she had to take photos for her food photography class. So while she took pictures, I took some too. She made me model for her gelato pictures, and she bought me a free one to do it! DEFINITELY worth it.
Then we went to "GANZO," the restaurant run by our school of hospitality and culinary arts, for weekly Wednesday night appertivi. You buy a drink for four euros, and all of the chefs' food creations are available to you...all. you. can. eat. Dinner? Done. It was ALL gourmet, and SOOOOOOOO delicious. We're making it a Wednesday night tradition. How could you pass that up? It's a bit of a walk so you don't feel as bad eating whatever you want.
Samples of some of the things we chowed down on: sashimi tuna, prosciutto and buffalo mozzarella, green beans in sesame, raw carrots and celery, plum and grape torte, vegetable and cheese tempura, some strange green fruit wrapped in salami, garlic pasta, pasta salad with tomato and mozzarella, meatballs, calamari, and even more that I can't remember. Ridiculous, am I right? Then Alexi stopped and bought us some fine dark chocolate with gold dust on top.
I'm definitely learning about food here. I'm enjoying it all. My cooking class requires me to know how foods are best stored and prepared as well as their nutritional value. My roommates are excellent chefs who intuitively feel how to bring out the best flavors in a dish. I'll cook for you guys when I get home, no worries. Mom and Dad, you give me money for the ingredients, I'll make you whatever you want.
After Ganzo, we came back home and decided to do FACIALS! Girl time! Hah. We just used yogurt and orange and put it on our faces. Then we went to the window and watched the garbage men pick up the bags on the street while it dried. It's actually STILL drying on my face right now...baha.
I guess I better wash that off.
Please continue to pray for my grandmother. She's not doing well. It's upsetting to not be with my family right now, and I'm having a hard time.
Until tomorrow.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Il Giorno di Mercato


Zucchini
Originally uploaded by catrberry
Woke up this morning and went with ISA on a little field trip to the Cascine Open Market. We had to walk a ways, and it turned out to be on the exact same grounds as the Democratic Festival this weekend! It's one of the only wooded places in Florence and apparently a lot of people go there to run. I'll admit I just don't really enjoy running... I'll jog when I'm at home to stay in shape, but while I'm here, I'm walking several miles a day and I consider that my exercise. Who needs cardio? ...
The market had stall after stall of fresh produce from local farmers, deli meats, regional cheeses, shoes, sporty jackets, crappy make-up, underwear, women's clothing, fake flowers, exotic flowers, and kitchen supplies. I was really tempted to try out a panini from one of the stalls, but I came back home to try to save some money.
I sliced a baguette and put olive oil, swiss cheese, and salami on top of each portion and them put them on top of the rack in the toaster oven. After a few minutes I looked through the glass and saw a huge flame...."oh my, oh my, oh my..."...then I turned off the oven and just started praying that the flame would go out. Eventually it did, and only a little bit of smoke exuded when I opened the glass. Phew. I started freaking out when I couldn't remember what you do for an electrical fire...flour? Or is that what NOT to do? Oh well. It turns out some of the cheese melted and fell into the burner part of the oven. Yeah, from now on I'm just going to put it on some tin foil.
Then, it was time for Italian class. Always entertaining. Alexi shared that it was his birthday, and when I freaked out he shushed me - he gets awkward when people start making a big deal about it. So, to celebrate we're all going to go eat dinner at this cheap/really good pizza place on the Oltrarno we've been hearing about called Gusta Pizza, then go to a chill pub and play some cards. Very typical and the best way to have a good time with friends.
Today in Italian, we learned how to ask where something is, where someone is from, and the correct endings for adjectives. So I haven't technically learned anything yet. Nada was of course wearing an interesting outfit again. One of these days I'm going to have to take a picture of her. Otherwise you probably won't believe this is real. She wore a black ensemble with sandals. Black linen-ish trousers and a black sleeveless shirt that buttons in the back. Oh, and her shirt was see-through. And she was wearing a white bandeau bra. Completely purposeful. Rings, a necklace, and two different dangly earrings. Crazzzzyyy. But awesome.
Now, I'm going to go with Leyla to do some homework at the library! Whoop!
Please keep praying for my grandma, Mama, who's still in the hospital in Macon. Buon giornata!

Monday, September 13, 2010

Parmigiana Di Melanzane, Torte Al Limone, e Pioggia Fiorentina


Parmigiana Di Melanzane
Originally uploaded by catrberry
My roommates are great. We just spent the last thirty minutes going through a medley of Grease songs, Hanson, and Billy Joel. Jess and I often sing duets together, and this time I got to be Sandy and she was Danny to "You're The One That I Want." If we're not singing, we're using foreign accents (Chinese, British, and Italian, duh!) or mimicking Peter from Family Guy's attempt at a foreign accent . Really, I can't imagine living anywhere else. We're free to be ourselves, which sometimes means we act like idiots.
Today has been eventful. But what day in Florence isn't? Or, for that matter, what day of life ANYWHERE isn't eventful? You just have to be on the lookout. Seek out the adventure, seek out the beauty in the every day.
I'll get off my soapbox now. I woke up early because I slept lightly last night, and cleaned a little, read a little, and ended up going back to sleep for a nap (hah!). I woke up again, watched "How I Met Your Mother" on my Mac (my dose of American culture), and ate lunch at eleven. Then I left for my Italian Renaissance History Class. We went to the Museum of Urban History and learned about the make-up of Florence; the layout from Medieval times and later maps of Renaissance Florence. Actually pretty cool. The class is really practical. La professoressa pointed out some good restaurants and gave us tips about using the crosswalk (it doesn't matter to the Italians. they'll still run over you), and even cussed when talking about the police. All things good to know.
After class, I had to hustle to the cooking school to pay my fee, grab my course packet, and get ready to cook. Too bad I only THOUGHT I knew where I was going...I got lost. Way lost. And had to ask a random elderly woman who was precious but knew NO English. Then I wound up at the Duomo...definitely NOT where I thought I was. I had to ask a vendor...who knew "un poco" inglese. But he did know the word "straight," so I headed in that direction. Finally I got to the classroom twenty minutes late, without my fees paid, my recipe book, or my apron...mia professoressa asked me to run down the street and change that. I got back and joined a group to cook eggplant parmesan - DELIZIOSO! One of the best things I've ever eaten, again. My group just ROCKED and we also got to eat another group's pasta. So I ate dinner at five.
Then, I left for home...but it started raining. I had no umbrella. Twenty-something-year-old men try to sell you EVERYTHING when you're walking on the street, and when it rains, they practically shove umbrellas into your face. "Bella, Umbrella?" "Non grazie." Creative, strange man. You can rhyme. I still won't buy your overpriced umbrella.
I ducked into an Italian bookstore named "Edison" in search of an easy book to read in Italian. I couldn't find one...I almost bought an old Roald Dahl book, but then found a treasure. Daddy, be proud. I found Emily Dickinson's "Angeli," a book of her poetry with english on one side and Italian on the other. This way, I can try to understand the Italian, and then really DIVE into the English translation after having to read both multiple times.
Finally, I came home, completely soaked, but in love with Florence in the rain. I stayed out there for a few more minutes just to watch the cobblestones fill up with puddles.
Side note: It's my grandfather, PaJoe's, 90th birthday. The man is so sweet and still so in love with my grandmother, Lollie. He is always willing to share memories of courting her back in his twenties. His optimism is contagious and I'm so grateful for this wonderful man's life, as he's given back to his community and family over these MANY, MANY years. What a long, happy life he continues to live and share!
Also, my wonderful grandmother, Mama, was put in the hospital this weekend. I love her so dearly, and my heart is wanting to be with her in Macon right now. She is such a strong woman and her love for her children and grandchildren is palpable. She cracks me up; she even loves to Skype! If you read this, would you please say a prayer for her? She's in her late 80's and not a great candidate for surgery that she needs. My family needs your prayers.
Before I go, I'll leave you with the recipes of the Eggplant Parmesan and Lemon Torte from last week so you can make your own authentic Italian dishes. You may need a small scale/help to convert to the metric system. Enjoy!

Torta Al Limone:
For the dough:
250 g flour
2 egg yolks
120 g sugar
150 g unsalted butter
60 ml cold water
salt
vanilla
lemon zest

For the topping and filling:
5 eggs, yolks and whites separated
zest and juice of 3 lemons
100 g sugar
1 tsp cornflower

Preheat the oven at 180 degrees C.

For the dough: work the butter with the flour; then make a well in the center and add the remaining ingredients: sugar, salt, vanilla, egg yolks and lemon zest. You only need seven minutes to produce perfect pastry. The main things is to work the pastry very quickly in order to avoid overheating it. You can help to reduce the amount of heat transferred to the dough by using pastry scrapers or the blades of two knives, rather than your fingertips, to mix the ingredients. Once you have kneaded the ingredients into a ball, the dough should be left to rest before being rolled out: the butter, which was at room temperature and diced, has to solidify and the flour, which was rendered more elastic by the addition of the liquids, needs to lose some of that elasticity. The ball of pastry should be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for about 30 minutes. After the pasta frolla has been left to rest, you should sprinkle a counter lightly with flour and roll it out using a rolling pin.

Topping and filling: beat the remaining egg yolks with 100 g of sugar until light and creamy. Add the zest and juice of lemons and then carefully stir in the cornflower, ensuring there are no lumps. Pour in a heavy-based pan and heat gently for 5 minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens - do not allow the mixture to boil or it will curdle.

Roll out the pastry and thinly and line a buttered 25 cm tart tin. Prick the base of the pastry all over with a fork. Bake blind for 15 minutes. In the meantime beat the egg whites until stiff; gently fold the egg white into the lemon cream and then pour this mixture into the pastry case. Bake in a 180 degree C (375 degree F) preheated oven for 20-30 minutes, until the surface is lightly browned all over. Serve the tart warm or cold.


Phewwwwwww... see how hard it was?

NOW for the easier stuff.
Eggplant Parmesan (Parmigiana di Melanzane):

Ingredients:
700 g eggplant, sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
extra virgin olive oil
500 g ripe tomatoes
250 g mozzarella cheese
fresh basil
100 g grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
salt & pepper

Salt the eggplant slices and leave fore 30 minutes to let the juices run out. Saute the garlic in oil until the aroma rises. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Cook over high heat until reduced to a thick sauce, then add the basil. Rinse and drain the eggplant. Deep fry them in hot oil (i.e. just lightly fry them in a pan with a bit of olive oil...this is Italy after all...), turning once, then drain on absorbent paper towels. Arrange the slices in a baking dish, cover with tomato sauce and sprinkle with mozzarella and parmesan cheese. Bake at 180 degrees C for about 30 minutes.

Let me know how either turns out if you make them! You won't regret it.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

A Villa, Two Nights of Dancing and Dear Friends, and 9/11

Buongiorno!
It's one more relaxed Sunday. I just woke up after taking a Benadryl, so I'm a little slowwwww.
We're about to head to a new supermercato we have found across the Ponte Vecchio. It looked so posh and the produce section was calling my name. It was full of Florentines which is always a good sign.
I haven't blogged since Thursday, I think, because these days have been long and packed. Little work has been involved, but we've been keeping busy with our Florentine adventures. Friday was the trip with ISA to the Medici Villa of Petria. It's on the outskirts of Florence, and it appropriately overlooks the entire city. I'm sure the Medici would have it no other way. It was only a summer villa but of course it has a huge beautiful amethyst chandelier in the center of the main room with incredible frescoes. There are two chapels in the house, a humongous game-room, lounges, dining rooms, and each has its own color theme. There is even a painting by Raphael in one of the last rooms. No big deal. Just art for the summer villa.
We ended going back home and resting for a while and ate some leftovers before Jess and I decided to go out for our first night on the town in Florence. We went walking down the Arno River looking for an outdoor wine bar in a piazza that Jess loved, but we took a wrong turn...instead, we found this odd carnival. We smelled the smoked delicious meat from the tents from far away and knew we had found our own little Florentine treasure. It turned out to be a Democratic Festival...yay Democracy! We met some Moroccan friends and smoked a "shishah" (hookah), had delicious Moroccan tea, and then danced at a Brazillian tent until it was time for us to go home. They played some songs in English: "What's Going On" by Four Non Blondes, "No Woman, No Cry" by Bob Marley, "I Gotta Feeling" by The Black Eyed Peas, and "Stayin' Alive" by the Beegees. Hilarious.
The next day we woke up and chilled for a while, cooked some pasta for lunch, went on a walk and ran into Alexi. He came back with us and we shared some music (he gave me some Justice, Hot Chip, Maxence Cyrine...), and then changed into a knee-length dress, heels, and a sweater for English mass at the Duomo. When we got there, one of the leaders asked us to participate...in mass at the Duomo. Jess got to do the Old Testament scripture reading, and Leyla and I collected the offering. Obviously, I'm not Catholic, so I was so nervous! I didn't know ANY of the responses...only the Lord's Prayer. I really enjoyed the service, though, and it was incredible to be in this amazing chapel worshipping the Lord.
After the service our group of eight friends walked for a while and found another treasure: a delicious, tucked-away restaurant. We chatted about the service, which was awesome to get input from each of us in this diverse group: two Catholics, two Protestants, two spirituals, a Jew, and an agnostic. Dinner was FANTASTIC. Everything was cooked to perfection, and my meal was one of the yummiest I have EVER had. It was pasta filled with pear in a creamy cheese sauce. Sweet but salty and savory. SO GOOD! Then we all headed to get gelato and chat at the Pitti Palace. Fantastic friends, delightful conversation.
Then it was back to the festival. Our Moroccan friends were there, and we danced some more. The best part of the night was the center stage: talented elderly couples tangoing, salsa-ing, and some Italian line dances as well. There was this one couple who were amazing dancers, but the most beautiful part was that the whole time they were smiling and looking into each others' eyes. It was obvious they enjoyed each others' company and shared this hobby together. I hope that when I am their age I will look at my husband in that same way.
When a song like an Italian "Cha Cha Slide" came on, Alexi decided that we should all get up and dance...so, Leyla, Alexi and I hopped up and tried to mimic their dancing. I was terrible but it was the highlight of my night. Then, the tango came on and Alexi grabbed Jess to dance with all of the other professional couples. Neither knew the tango but were so much fun to watch.
Then it was back home! Woke up this morning, laid around for a while and finally got up and chatted with the girls.

It's been interesting to be away from the States and pick up on other countries' view of the US. It's not very favorable, and they seem to think we are a giant that will soon be toppled.
Yesterday Jess and I opened the windows and sang the national anthem and said the pledge of allegiance in honor of Septemer 11. Kind of a joke, but we meant it, too. The priest prayed for the victims yesterday at mass. It's hard to believe it was only nine years ago. In a way, I'm grateful to be out of the US to get a new perspective, but I'm also glad because I'm nervous with all of the foolish Koran burning and what-not. If you want to fuel the hatred of an already extremist group feeling indignant by American culture, go ahead...
Sorry to end this on a sour note. Hope you are all well!

Thursday, September 9, 2010

L'Accademia, Nada, e la mia sciarpa.


P1030288
Originally uploaded by catrberry
Today was a very typical Florentine day. I assume it will be like most days here...
It consisted of waking up, breakfast, shower, learning to tie my scarf like a European (pictures on Facebook, of course), and heading to the Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza della Signoria before class. If you've never heard of this outside quasi-museum, it holds 16 statues: five are original masterpieces and eleven are replicas of masterpieces (the real ones are all in Florence). So, anytime of day you want, you can head to this piazza next to the Uffizi Museum (housing the most prestigious works of Renaissance art, similar in reputation to the Louvre, The British Museum...), and gaze upon these incredible INCREDIBLE sculptures.
I headed there before my class to read Calvino's "Marcovaldo" and people-watch. This may be one of the best places in Florence to do so. I sat on a bench next to a statue and watched as tour group after sneaker-wearing elderly couple after Italian natives and so on admired these masterpieces. I mean, it's free! I'm such a penny-pincher so I know I'll become a regular here. I also enjoyed the security guard having to repeat to foreigners "non mangiare!" None of them understood the first time and would come back with their food, only to be yelled at again.
Then, I headed back to my place for a quick peanut butter and toast lunch before class. It was my second beginner's Italian, and we're still working on greetings...
My teacher is CRAZY. "Pazza" in Italian. But she rocks. Her name: Nada. She has this strange high-pitched voice...it makes me worried that I'll pick it up whenever I speak Italian because she's the one teaching me. The best thing about her is the way she dresses. A little background: Italians can wear ANYTHING and look stunning. And, oh, they take advantage of this.
On the first day of class, sweet Nada wore this white top that looked modest at the top. Then BAM! you realize that her shirt is unbuttoned so that her belly-button is showing. This lady is like fifty, okay? And the whole class you can't help but stare at it...it's like a train-wreck. ANYWAY, today she wore suede, tan ankle boots with fringe at the top, black parachute capris, a collared white short sleeve polo with a tight black tube-top over it, a silver and gold necklace, and only ONE earring...it was an emerald that dangled almost all the way down to her collarbone. And trust me, the one earring thing was purposeful. Both days she has worn pink eyeliner on her top lid and aqua eyeliner on her bottom lid, as well as a quirky little smile. I love this lady because she owns whatever she does.
Which is why I decided to tie my scarf in an unusual way this morning. I wanted to try out something European and just rock it. I asked a guy friend in one of my classes, "So is my scarf cute or is it a little ridiculous?" He replied, "It's a little ridiculous." I took it as a compliment. And I'm still wearing it. It looks like a cute little rose. Go ahead, judge me. I'm just learning to express myself.
After class, Jess and Leyla and I headed for a roomie adventure to L'Accademia, where Michelangelo's David statue stands. It. was. breathtaking. So intricate, so much larger in real life than I had expected. It snuck up on me and then I couldn't take my eyes off of it. You can't afford mistakes in sculpture, and this was complete perfection. While Skyping my parents (for an hour!) tonight, my mom said that it is so evident that Michelangelo was inspired by God in his works. His genius is beyond human limits. L'Accademia is on our museum card, which means admission is free. This also means I'll be pouring over the sculptures and amazing paintings there while I am here. Fan-tas-tic.
I'm off to read and then sleep; tomorrow ISA takes us to a Medici Villa away from town! Can you say PICTURES?!
Ciao!

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Festival of Lanterns


Festival of Lanterns
Originally uploaded by catrberry
It's ten here, and I'm COMPLETELY exhausted.
I Skyped with my poor mother today and could barely maintain a conversation.
I think it's because I took Benadryl last night at like one. Because I'm itching everywhere. And I don't know why. My roomie has bedbugs, but I don't think that's what it is. I got some bug bites at the Boboli Gardens yesterday, but that's not the whole issue. Sighhhhhh.
At least the Boboli Gardens were beautiful. I couldn't sleep so I got up early and headed there right after it opened and before it was filled with tourists. I found a quaint little nook on the top of a hill where I could look out over the whole city and read some poetry by Lorenzo de' Medici. The man knows his junk, and the man loved Florence. It's amazing that such political force and the ability to express such a sensitive heart are found in the same man. Again, siggghhhhhhh.
Today was good; woke up and went to class at twelve. Today was Contemporary Italian Literature - it's going to be fascinating! It's in English (thank goodness!), and we're studying literature from Neorealismo after WWII until the present to get a look into what Italian culture REALLY is like. I can't wait to immerse myself in it, and hopefully I'll be able to get to know some Italian friends to talk about it with.
So far, because it's "Tourist Season," few Florentines are out in the daytime just enjoying Florence. Like swarms of gnats, tour groups follow their leader with their little headsets, and because their heads are always up, they never look where they are going...which is quite annoying when you're trying to cut through the Uffizi to get to your class. You hear so many different languages...Italian, French, German, Spanish, Chinese...it can be overwhelming. Thankfully, in about three weeks when the weather changes, the tourists will head back to their native countries so the Florentines (and temporary citizens, of course) can breathe easy.
Last night, we did catch a glimpse of the heart of Florentine culture. Leyla, Jess and I heard of an event called the "Festival of Lanterns," so after Leyla made us delicious chicken parmesan, we headed past the Duomo to Piazza Santissima Annunziata. It started at eight and we did not leave the apartment until about 9:30, so we weren't sure if the Festival was still going on. When we got there, the square was filled with all native Florentines families. What a sight! Here's a link of what the meaning of the Festival is if you want to look into it ...The short story: there are little kids with paper lanterns with a candle inside and the teenagers have spit wad wands to try to put out the flame of the candle. There's a whole historical myth behind it...such a fun thing to witness. I just wish there were cool traditions for families like that back in the States.
There was a concert in the center, and the band actually played good music! Sort of as a joke, sort of as a tribute to Americans, the band played "Rock Around The Clock" and "Tutti-Frutti" towards the end. I was cracking up -- these Italians know Little Richard, a Maconite! Hilarious. They also played the Samba, and Leyla, my Guatemalan roommate, and I danced a bit. We just had a great time watching how joyful and expressive these Italians were. They loved to dance; the floor in front of the stage was filled with line dancers (haha!) and even some professional looking dancers. An elderly couple sweetly danced cheek-to-cheek...I won't lie, I teared up a little. Last night was by far my favorite night in Florence. I'm falling even more in love with the Florentine culture. I may never leave...
Well, arrivederci for now!

Monday, September 6, 2010

Lemon Torte


Lemon Torte
Originally uploaded by catrberry
Today was the first day of classes! My only class of the day started at three and ended at six. Another perk? It was my Vegetarian cooking class!
This was the only cooking class that non-culinary majors could take, so pretty much every one is a beginner. The 14-person class is (surprise, surprise...) all female. I thought that I'd be the only person without much skill in the kitchen, but, thanks to Margaret and Ves Berry, I was one of the more advanced. A girl in my group had never cracked an egg NOR had she separated the egg white and yolk. Even the dish-washing session...some girls did not know how to correctly wash and dry dishes! This concerns me...
Today we studied the lemon and learned of its health benefits as well as where it is found in Italy. So of course we had to make a lemon torte...
Anyway, turns out that baking a simple torte requires a LOT of time and a LOT of precision.
Bubbles? "Keep whisking." The dough ball is shiny? "Your dough is too warm." Your lemon mixture is too thick? "The lemon cream is over-cooked." Is there anything we did right?!
After a taste-test, our chef reported that our pastry was very good. I mean, to my southern palate, I just thought the whole thing was delicious! About as perfect as I've ever eaten. But it was still nice to receive this compliment after we had labored for so long. I love our chef, who was concerned with our class but helped us and gave us tips. She laughed alongside us and, like a warm Italian, even put patted our shoulders after we were done. Touch is my "love-language," so it's easy to feel appreciated here.
I made a few friends in the class, although none of them were with ISA. Sarah, from New York, is fantastic. She's a lot of fun and has some cooking experience as well. We live near each other and walked our twenty minute walk back to our apartments.
Aashikra (I think that's how you spell it...) is from India, and she was also in our cooking group. She is so kind and thoroughly enjoyed getting to cook. The dear even stayed after class to finish washing the dishes with Chef Cecilia.
Another friend (I think her name was Lindsey but now I'm forgetting) was so easy to talk to and fun to be around. She just graduated but is taking a year off to study for a semester in Florence and then teach English in India before heading to Harvard next Fall.
I can't wait to get to know these new friends, either!
Next Monday we study either eggplant or carrot...I can't remember which!
If you would like I can put up the recipes. Just ask me.
After class, Alva and Jess were hanging out at our apartment, and we decided to go searching for a little bite. We randomly ended up meeting Leyla on the street walking back from her class and all walked to the Oltrarno together. I was still so full from the lemon torte that I just came back and made a simple bruschetta. Delizioso!
Another funny thing about living in Florence: you put your trash out every day except for Sunday. You take the bags and put them in a corner of the street from 7:30-8:30 a.m. or p.m., as there is a pick up both in the morning and in the evening. I guess Italians like to be very clean and rid the house of all of the rich smells from dinner the night before.
Oh, and tomorrow I start my Italian language class as well as my International Relations class. Man, I can't wait. I'm so interested in both...don't you love it when your education is enjoyable?
Buona Notte, miei amici!

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Florence at Dusk


Florence at Dusk
Originally uploaded by catrberry
Ahhhhhh...today was a breath of fresh air.
The Sabbath day of rest was definitely much needed. I only went out of the apartment ONCE, and that was to get gelato :)
After I blogged last night, I did my nightly routine and headed to bed around twelve. I woke up this morning to church bells and couldn't help but smile. I rolled over and went back to sleep. I woke again to a single chime. Maybe it's chiming for the half of an hour? The huge widows in our room were covered by drapes, so the room was completely dark. I checked my phone. It was ONE O'CLOCK IN THE AFTERNOON. Both of my roommates were still asleep. Thirteen hours of sleep. Thirteen! I'm sad I didn't make it to church this morning, but I know that resting is also important to the body and spirit.
Next Saturday at 5:00 p.m. is English mass at the Duomo. The only real way for us to get in without paying. Think about what a precious time of praising the Lord that will be. I'm so ready for it. Then, Sunday morning is English sung mass at St. Mark's right down the street. I'm not sure if I'll do both in one weekend, but I plan to check them out.
After getting up, we ate yogurt, and Leyla made us doppio (double) espressos. I'm addicted. I get this everyday? Thank you, Lord! Then we chilled out, and the girls went to write in their journals and get cappuccinos at our favorite "snack bar" on the corner. While they were gone, I did a few things around the apartment to settle in even more. I'm nesting.
About thirty minutes after they left I heard a door in our apartment slam. "Ciao bella!" I yelled down the corridor. No reply. "Guys?" I went out into the hall and saw nothing. I went back in my room. About five minutes later I heard it again. "Hello?!" I shouted. Still nothing. Alright, so imagine you're living in a seven hundred year old building, and you are home alone. Then imagine this constant door slamming. I started to get creeped out.
Ten minutes later...I heard the door slam again. It's not just like a door shuts loudly. It's a heavy, booming door slam, and the sound reverberates through the whole apartment. "What IS that?!" I said to myself. Jess and I were talking the day before about how the place has to be haunted. So, I wondered to myself if this could really be some sort of outside forces trying to intimidate me. Praise God, Psalm 23 came into mind. I kept repeating those verses that I learned way back in Mrs. Stroberg's Sunday School class back in the day. "The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not be in want. He makes me lie down in green pastures, he leads me beside quiet waters, he restores my soul. He leads me in paths of righteousness for His name's sake. Even though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil, for you are with me; your rod and your staff, they comfort me." I'm comforted knowing that the Lord surrounds me, and He will one day completely defeat the powers of darkness.
Sorry for the creepy/moral story, it just touched me today.
When they got home, it continued, and we think it's coming from the bathroom door. Oh well.
Jess made dinner, and it was SO DELICIOUS! We had a glass of Chianti with pasta. She made the sauce herself :) Tomatoes, parmesan, balsamic, salami, milk, bread crumbs, garlic, basic, olive oil...then the noodles. Then we had bread from a paneterria down the street and put olive oil and a tomato, then a little bit of balsamic. One of the best meals I've had yet! I'm so blessed to be living with two amazing chefs. Hopefully it'll rub off on me. Then I skyped Micah, which was fantastic. I've missed her face way too much. I chatted Emily, too, of course. They both seem to be doing well and very happy in their new environments. In a way, it's nice to know that we're all having these new experiences and can come back and appreciate each other all the more.
After that, the girls and I went to gelato (three flavors - tiramisu, crema, and peach -- for two euros! impossible to find around this place) and ate it laying down in front of the Pitti Palace. Florence at sunset is breathtaking.
Alright, I'm about to go read some of Lorenzo de Medici's poetry and head to bed. G'night, dear ones!

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Vietato Toccare!


P1020872
Originally uploaded by catrberry
Don't touch!
The Italians have a much smaller idea of "personal space." Even walking on a two foot sidewalk, an Italian does not think it strange to brush up right against you. They will sit right next to you, even if all the other seats are open. They love to use their hands and to touch you with them while talking to you (If you know me well, you know that I love to do the same...if I'm passionate about something that I want to tell you, my hand will be holding your arm. It doesn't matter who you are.).
So they can touch you all they want in conversation, but never EVER touch their merchandise without permission. Americans, as our individualistic culture goes, like to go into stores and pick up whatever they want, throw things around in the sale section, leave without saying a word to the clerk. In Italy, you best greet the clerk and then ask him to pick up whatever you desire to try on or look at.
A rude shoe saleswoman rolled her eyes and was very curt with an American friend who did not know of this cultural difference. Another friend buying a hat picked one up, and the clerk immediately slammed it down and picked it up herself. Italians, please be more understanding! We don't know any different.
The thing that cracked me up most about this "no touching" rule is picking out produce at the grocery store. Normally, the grocer picks up the fruit for you. At the supermercato we went to, there was a "self-service" section. The instructions: Do not touch the fruit without a glove. Put on a glove, put the produce in a bag, plug in the number, place on a scale, print off the sticker, stick on bag, clerk scans it when checking out.
The produce is extraordinarily cheap, though! My diet almost completely consists of tomato, mozzarella, and bread. Maybe I should add some veggies or something...for right now I'm not complaining!
Activities for today: Hiked to Piazza San Michaelangelo and then onto Basilica di San Miniato (gorgeous hilltop views of all of Florence!), pizza lunch, going to an outdoor specialty market, skyping with Mom and Dad, grocery shopping, guided tour of Florence, free dinner with ISA (coke, pizza, and delicious tiramisu!), and home to chill. I don't think I've ever walked as much as I have in the past week - not even a week - have I really been gone less than a week?! I know all my keys to get into my apartment. For the most part, I know how to get around my city. I know the shops, I know the pizzerias. I know my roommates and other dear ISA friends. I'm happy, I'm settled, I'm oh-so-enamored by Florence.
I love ISA. Why? Reason number 274: They gave us an all-encompassing Museum pass for over fifty or so museums and churches of Florence. Can you say Uffizi (housing some of the world's best Renaissance art), L'Accademia (where Michaelangelo's David statue is), Pitti Palace, the Medici Chapel (designed by Michaelangelo, tombs of the Medici family)?...the list continues.
Tomorrow we have no plans. The first day so far! Sabbath rest, here I come! So thankful. I'm going to read, cook, and put my feet up.
Well, we're having a roomie showing of Anjelah Johnson BonQuiQui and Nail Salon on youtube. Gots to go!
Goodnight!

Friday, September 3, 2010

Buena Noche!


P1020815
Originally uploaded by catrberry
You're right, that's Spanish, not Italian. But that's what I said tonight when I bought a big pail of strawberry yogurt at the supermarket. We ran in five minutes before closing, so I was considerately hurrying to get out of the place. "Buona Notte!" the clerk said. "Buena Noche!" I replied. But it's okay because I start my language class on Tuesday. And I'm planning to make some Italian friends to really expose myself to the Italian culture.
A funny thing about Italian culture that I picked up today: the men are creepy. Generalization. Let me start that over. A lot of the men stare inappropriately at young women. I guess American females have unfortunately received the stereotype of heavy drinkers and easy hookups. Therefore, the creepers think if they give us enough "signals" they can lure us in.
Anyway, we had a briefing by a police officer in our ISA meeting today. Also a female staff member spoke. We're not supposed to greet men on the street for a prolonged amount of time, or they will think you are interested in them. In America, we so easily greet everyone and make friends out of strangers. The same is found here...the people are so friendly and open. But, just like in America, you have to be wary of creepers.
There are some exceptions. We've already met a few Italian men who will be a part of our daily lives that don't give me the willies. One is our apartment's security guard, Ricardo. We recieve a "Ciao! Come stai?" every day. Then there's Tony, the hotel greeter at the adjacent building. He asked if we were spanish. Hah! He speaks a good bit of English. And mystery waiter man at the adorable (yet pricey!) cafe next to the hotel. He recommended the salami panini to me, which was delicious! The salami here is just like pepperoni. Mmmmmmmm... the pastries are to die for. I'll take a picture...I drool over the cannoli and huge meringues every day.
Today has been exhausting...two orientations and one Florence University of the Arts kickoff. We've walked all around Florence, and now I am about to fall into my keyboard...
Today, I've eaten a mini pizza by David statue outside of l'Accademia, walked past the Duomo three times, and had hors d'oeuvres and Asti at a refurbished palace. I'm spoiled rotten.
Anyway, I'm loving some new friends from Kentucky: Meredith, Olivia, and Sabrina. I feel like we have a lot in common. They're really down to earth and easy to talk to.
Going to sleep now. SO. TIRED. ZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Io sono qui!

WE'RE HERE!!!!!
Oh my gosh.
It's fantastic.
Holy holy holy moley.
We're in a building from the 14th Century. HUGE, lofted ceilings. Gigantic windows that open into the street. Sound of the day: horse hooves clip-clopping on cobblestones below. I love European streets because they're so narrow. Buildings on either side of the street are a mere ten or so feet apart.
My favorite thing to do is stick my head out the window and people watch. The other night the girls and I were in our hotel with our windows open and were hear two men yelling at each other in Italian. I looked outside and watched the entire conflict - screaming, Italian curse words, harsh gestures, and a man briskly walking away from a ristorante and the owner. It was INTENSE. The best part was that as the argument heightened, the people in the apartments above opened their windows one-by-one and listened in on the verbal sparring...probably ten tenants were shaking their heads from above. I'm such a creeper, I even watched them creep. I think I belong to the Italian culture.
Our apartment is in the best location possible. Upscale stores everywhere. Only problem is that means that all the restaurants/gelaterias/stores around us are overpriced b/c it's a tourist trap. Kinda annoying.
But so so so great.
Last night was a blast. Went to dinner and ate family style. Walked around forever...went to the Trevi, the Piazza Novana, got lost, then ended up at a quaint little pub. Great time with Leyla, Jess, and our new friends Alexi and Alva. The boys are wonderful and protective of us. After making our way back to the hotel, Jess, Leyla and I had a heart to heart and shared about our lives. Bonding time. I'm really grateful for genuine roommates (and I'm not just saying that because they read this!). We made a decision to go get gelato...at one thirty at night. We sauntered over, and Jessica made a friend. An Italian man named Luga. Got his number (smart girl, she didn't give him hers!), and he has a friend with a vineyard. Really pushing her to take us there :) Haha, I'm joking.
This morning we got up, packed, ate breakfast, and got on the bus to Florence. The countryside was breathtaking. So many old fortresses and high walls. Sweet old villas. Sunflowers EVERYWHERE. Vineyards, olive trees. Take me back!
As I was mentioning earlier, Italians love to look out their windows. A few minutes ago, our across the ten feet stretch neighbor poked his body out his window. He saw Leyla and grabbed a towel. She freaked, turned around, told me, and I snapped some pictures. He resumed looking out the window with a towel wrapped solely around his waist. Now he's trying to shut the windows but can't get them to close...BAHAHAHAHHA. I love living here.
Buona Notte!

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Andiamo a domani!

So tomorrow we go to Florence, my home base for the next four months. Can I tell you that I'm ECSTATIC?!
Today was our second orientation meeting, which means we were introduced to Florence and our housing. Rome is incredible. It's huge and around every corner there is a monumental portion of history. This is where you come to be inspired. It's where you learn about human civilization. The greats became great in Rome. So why am I so excited to leave Rome for Florence?
The people of Florence are (as I've been told) much more inviting, and the city is much more "home-y." As a historical center, no buildings can be added or torn down, only the insides can be renovated. This place looks exactly as it did five hundred years ago! But more, it's the birthplace of the Renaissance. And as for its size, the ISA staff does not even consider it a city and will only call it a quaint town. It's famous for fashion - Gucci started here, maybe even was born here? The Duomo, The Uffizi, The Academia, Santa Croce, The Boboli Gardens, The Pitti Palace, and, of course, the Ponte Vecchio are all found within walking distance of my apartment.
The staff showed pictures of the ISA office and bragged that they are located right by the Ponte Vecchio, arguably the symbol of Florence. I flipped - I live in the same building as the ISA office! I know, now I'm bragging. I'm just overwhelmed by this opportunity. I'm convinced that this is one of the best decisions of my life, and that going with a program like ISA (and going without anyone I know) is the way to go. Message me if you want to talk more about it. I'm free to just be who I want to be, have made fun/chill/hilarious friends, and am convinced that I am smack dab in the middle of a few of the most fascinating places on earth.
My roommates are great -- Jess and Leyla -- and both are a few years older than me. They are so laid-back and level headed but are constantly making jokes. Last night (after getting lost...adding another thirty minutes of walking to a day filled with TEN hours of walking) we laid with our backs on Jess's bed, feet in the air, legs pressed against the wall in a 90 degree angle. We laughed and stretched and ached. It's simple things like that that bond people together.
We've already talked to our neighbors about having dinner parties and movie nights at our place. Also, because we're right above the ISA office, we're planning to utilize the space as much as possible (especially for the free electricity ;). The girls are both hospitality majors, which includes a great deal of cooking courses and restaurant know-how. Both are incredible chefs and would love to work in the restaurant business one day. God is so good to me -- now I can learn! This is the deal: They cook Italian specialties, and I watch, contribute a few euros for my portion, and then edit their papers when it comes time. Perfect trade-off? I think so.
Anyway, today was the Vatican, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter's Basilica. Mind-blowing. I can't describe it. No one can. The Sistine Chapel is the most amazing art I have ever seen in my life. It took Michaelangelo four years to paint this masterpiece that is HUGE!!!!! And he did it by himself. I was told that DaVinci was propositioned to do it but told the Pope that it would take ten men and fifteen years to complete, so then Michaelangelo was forced to do it instead. Every posture, every facial expression plays into the greater meaning. The sequence of frescoes on the left side are depictions of events in the life of Jesus, and on the right are frescoes of Moses's life that parallel Jesus's life. Amazing. Incredible. Praise God! The Last Judgment was frightening, honestly. But the sections make a face, as if it were the face of God. Google it. It's so legit. Unfortunately I couldn't take pictures there -- the Swiss Army Guards constantly shout, "NO TALKING! NO PHOTO!" Oh well. Go see it if you can...You could spend days there.
St. Peter's Square is HUGE. Thousands gather every Wednesday night to see the pope make a speech. Apparently it's like a pep-rally...each section of Italy cheers for their region. Funny funny, and they roar when the Pope begins to talk. Unfortunately, he's on vacation on the outskirts of Rome tonight or I'd totally be there to witness this.
And then the Vatican museum is just a bunch of ornate rooms in the Pope's house decorated by incredibly famous artists (Botticelli, Raphael, even Salvador Dali had a painting in one), simply for Papal pleasure.
Please look at my pictures on Facebook -- I want you to share in some of these amazing sights.
Anyway, when I get to Florence tomorrow I'll probably won't be able to blog as much. I've been lucky to get free internet at the hotel (because I found an unlocked network in a stranger's apartment) and a lot of free time after packed days.
Again, thanks for caring, and I hope you enjoy traveling with me!